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![]() ![]() You can teach yourself how to customize a harp (at least somewhat), but be prepared to ruin several while learning and even afterwards. In other words: consistency and fine tolerances cost money! I then think that, “Hey! This is the harp model for me!” So I buy another of the same brand and model – and it is a disaster!!īut let’s be honest: mass producing blues harps for a reasonable price just does not permit every one to be perfectly set up. a Hohner Special 20 or a Suzuki Blues Master and others) that have allowed me to do at least some overblows (especially +6o, sometimes +5o) right out of the box. In my experience it is a matter of luck but sometimes I have found a reasonably priced harp (e.g. I will try to keep my remarks here short and to the point (I know, unusual for me ). This is really a huge topic and sort of a Pandora’s Box. What’s your perspective/experience with overblows and overdraws? The Hohner website says that Howard Levy, who in mind is the consummate master of the technique, plays Hohner Marine Bands and Golden Melody’s.Īnyways, that gets the conversation started from my perspective. I’m not sure why? I’m not sure if high holes are easier to overblow than low holes?Īlso, in my article on which harmonica to buy, I mention about how much JP would sing the praises of the Seydel 1847’s once they’re setup aftermarket by a couple guys mentioned in the article, and he mentions that it’s easy to do overblows. Recently I was watching one of Alex’s videos about insanely hard licks, which are all Howard Levy licks, and while working on one, I was able to get an overblow on the 6 on a Lee Oskar key of F, without any aftermarket modification. So then I’d go back in, make the gap a little bib bigger, and then I could play and have it never choke, but I could never get the overblow. So I do have a lighter approach now, and maybe I should explore this world again and see if my experience is different.īut, what happened to me was, I found I could get the harp to overblow, but then it would choke sometimes when I was jus playing normally. I was blowing and drawing the HECK out of my harmonica. Once substantial way is that I played with waaaay to much force back then. Now I should note here that this was 10 years ago when I went on this mission, and my technique has improved a lot since then. So the idea is to get a toothpick or something and put some pressure on the reed you want to be able to overblow (or overdraw) and get it to be closer to the reed plate.īut here’s the rub: closely gapped reeds can choke if you play them too hard and/or if they are gapped too close to the opening. ![]() My understanding is that in order to be able to play overblows and overdraws, the reeds need to be gapped really close to the reed plate. I give myself like a B- in handiness, and I’m most challenged with really small work projects like…adjusting the reeds inside of a harmonica. ![]() Now, I don’t know if you’re the tinkering type. There was a time in my life that I felt really committed to learning the overdraw and overblow techniques so that I could finally get those “missing notes.” But, what I gathered from scouring forums is that success with these techniques is heavily dependent upon the harmonica being “set up” to play overdraws and overbends. They’re like, “look at me trumpet players, I can play even HIGHER than you.” But those of us who don’t play trumpet are like, “Ow. For example, trumpet players are obsessed with playing super-high notes, because it’s difficult to do. On any instrument there are difficult techniques that are impressive mostly only to people who play that instrument. None of my favorite harp players I grew up listening to used overblows (with the notable exception of harmonica overblow and overdraw master Howard Levy, of course.) So I don’t really sweat it too much. And then after that, explore tongue blocking. I didn’t even mention tongue blocking and all of the possibilities it opens up. I was just chatting with on another thread about harmonicas with alternate tunings, and the subject of overblows and overdraws came up tangentially, and I realized that it such a popular topic these days, I’d better go ahead and start a thread where we can chat about it.įirst of all, I think many people become obsessed with talking about and learning this technique and, I don’t wanna sound like a broken record here, but the vast majority of us harp players would be better served focusing our attention on the deep relaxed mouth position, being able to isolate really clean notes with lip blocking, being able to get draw bends on clean on draws 1-6, getting intonation of half step bends on -2, -6, and especially the -3, being able to get the blow bends on holes 8-10, learning scales and patterns of scales, learning how to improvise well, working on our time, playing with dynamics… You get the idea. ![]() ![]() ![]() Tender sliced beef or chicken with tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, and white cheese sauce on top. 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![]() ![]() Byzantine Empire: As any of the Byzantine rump states in 1204 (Nicaea, Trebizond, and Epirus), by retaking Thrace, your claim to the Byzantine throne can be recognized! Additionally, in 1337, the Ottomans can claim the Byzantine throne if the Byzantine Empire no longer exists and the Ottomans control Constantinople.Sorbian (West Slavic): Represents the Sorbs of eastern Germany, who are linguistically distinct from other Polabian Slavs.Great Russian, Ruthenian, and Belarusian (East Slavic) (appear from 1240-1280).Various tribal cultures (East Slavic) (867/936 only).Avaric (Caucasian): Represents the Avars and related peoples in the northeastern Caucasus region.Arpitan (Frankish): Represents Gallo-Romance speakers in the Alps region that speak neither French nor Occitan.Circassian (Caucasian): Represents the Circassian people in the Caucasus region.Tatar (Turkic): Represents the Volga Tatars and the Turco-Mongols of the Golden Horde.Chagatai (Turkic): Represents the blend of cultures between the Mongol rulers and Karluk Turkic people of the Chagatai Khanate.Turkish (Turkic): Represents the Turks of Anatolia.I feel like it gives me the most freedom to play how I like to play. The Carolingians is always my go-to start for custom games. Not much in the way of the bad, best start in my book!.You can pretty much start anywhere except middle Europe without a lot of scenario-based aggression.All the main characters are bundled together.You can build up your own empire before you have to deal with them. All the main characters are bundled close together, and they tend to squabble against each other for a few hundred years before you have to worry about them. Scenario-based AI aggression is kind of all over the place.This is the only scenario with an Africa-based main character, so if you’re interested in playing as a main character in Africa, this is the start for you!.A lot of the main characters are smaller territories, so they aren’t as strong.You’ll want to aim for the far East to avoid scenario-based AI aggression. This start has the main characters spread out a bit again, which makes things tricky when you’re trying to do your own thing. The Middle East is in chaos, and the AI is on a warpath.Scenario-based AI aggression is pretty contained to the Iberian Peninsula.If you start in South Africa, Northern Europe, or the far East of the map, you won’t have a lot of scenario-based AI aggression.This is my favorite of the three 1066 starts, mainly because it’s a bit different since it’s focused on the Iberian Peninsula. Scenario-based AI aggression is pretty contained to the NorthĪll three of the 1066 starts are at the top of my worst list because it’s a shorter game, and you get a bunch of freebie technologies.If you start in Africa, Southern Europe, or the far East of the map, you won’t have a lot of scenario-based AI aggression.This start makes playing in the Netherlands a bit rougher but leaves you open to more areas in England to start without an overly aggressive AI. Fortunately, it’s more condensed in the north. Playing as the Vikings? There are other Vikings.Īnother Europe-centered AI war machine.You get a couple extra hundred years to play before the game ends in 1453.It’s pretty fun when you’re playing as the Vikings for a few hundred years.Think you’re safe in Africa? Only for a few hundred years. Think you’re safe in the East? Think again. I love the 867 starts, but this one gets real old real fast. Europe is in chaos, and the AI is on a warpath.Shorter game since you’re starting in 1066 and the game ends in 1453.Any start in 1066 allows you to start with more technologies.If you start in Africa or the far East of the map, you won’t have a lot of AI push from Europe.The titles are in pieces which can be good if you are planning on building a quick empire but know that the AI will constantly be trying to take them back. This start has a lot of spread-out “main characters” (characters that the game recommends you start as). These rankings are based on how well the scenarios are for a free-play game. My preferred game plan is to create my own character and hit various achievements. Do you agree with the list? What would you change? I have ranked all six below from worst to best. There are two start dates (867 or 1066) to choose from in Crusader Kings 3, with three bookmarks to choose from for each. ![]() ![]() Animators create educational content that teachers use, and they design medical imagery for the public and people in medical professions. Some create animation for video games and websites, while others work on visual effects. Animators work in many different industries. The word “animation” often makes people think of television shows and movies, and while this is a common place for Animators to work, there are many other things that an Animator can do. Read more about why you should learn Adobe Animate. For instance, with Animate’s puppet animation, users can manage a character rig without redrawing it. 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